EPIC FEW DAYS HEADED FOR CUZCO

DAY-174

4/24/2012

Today I got on the road not until 10 or so taking my time, I was pretty tired from the day before. I knew I had about 6hrs of all pavement today, the only pavement day I will have all week. I passed through a couple of police checkpoints just getting waved through. I finally got waved over stopped and talked with them for a seconds showed my permit but nothing else and they told me to have a great day. I got pulled over again and this time we just shook hands and talked about where I had come from and where I was headed. Then they shook my hands and sent me on my way without ever looking at my documents. I filled up a few more times just to be on the safe side because I still do not have mileage. I got into Huancayo where I knew where to go to sleep from another traveler, I got there but they had moved so I was shown the new location; although I couldn’t get in the door. So I traveled around the city as it got dark looking for a cheap place with parking, I started to get frustrated and then relaxed, went back to the same placed asked for help and they knew a place with inside parking and cheapish rooms. I got a private for 12bucks, expensive but not a lot of choices.

DAY-175

4/25/2012

        I have not been in a rush to get on the road super fast the last couple of days, each day have been about 8+hrs of riding so if I leave by 9ish at the latest I will be good. So I headed off today around 9am, I got pulled over twice at police checks. We just shook hands and talked for about five minutes each time without checking my documents they sent me on my way. The first time I was stopped they really liked my amigo Animal (from the Muppets) that is zip tied to my front crash bar.

The road was paved for about 10 minutes and then turned to a bumpy, rutted out, muddy, creeks, potholes, washed out, AWESOME dirt road. I just went for it, the map I had was okay for this area but I mainly depended on asking people along the way. The road stayed at high elevation and then started to climb higher and higher. There was over two hours of riding desolate high altitude dirt roads, just winding through abandoned villages. It was amazing riding, I was truly riding solo to the world what an amazing feeling. It was snowing/ hailing/ raining on me, and so cold. After a little detour I found my new dirt road and made my way up and over a few ridges, until I started dropping down to the world of heat, cactus, dried river beds, and a river. I was whipping down the road, so many switch backs through the start of the desert. I came around a turn and a cop coming up the other way was surprised by me but I was on my side and it was safe, but he slammed his brakes and held his horn at me staring at me trying to get me to stop as I went by so I waved and kept on going. When I checked the mirror they were still stopped looking at me ride away. (The road was too narrow for them to turn around) I passed a few more cops without an issue. I made it into the next big city and grabbed some gas and it all of a sudden started to rain cats and dogs. It was pissing down rain hard; I threw on my rain jacket and went for the last 70km stretch. It was raining hard I was staying with a truck taxi, when another taxi started to ride my ass, like really close. I passed a few cars and it started to stop raining. I saw a police check point coming up I slowed, the taxi caught up and was on me as we headed into the check point. No other cars were pulled over and one cop standing in the middle of the road started to wave me down I slowed but he was looking at another car and he was waving me over but it also looked like he was waving everyone behind me through. All of a sudden the taxi started to pass me, screw this I am going so I followed the taxi and the cop started blowing his whistle loud at me I played dumb and just kept on going waving as I passed. I checked my mirror and he was walking over talking with the other cops all staring at me but nothing else.

I have come to the conclusion if there are a group of cops standing around and not pulling anyone over until you come into view then they pull you over they are going to try and rip you off, play dumb and pass through if possible. I pulled into town and saw three cops stopped and asked them where this particular hostel was, after a few minutes two of them got into their truck and told me to follow them. It was an unmarked crappy Nissan, I followed it and they would pull in front of traffic stopping it and let me through. They got me to the hostel and dropped me off with a hand shake they were off. The cheap room was gone so I had to do a little haggling with the owner to get it down to a cheaper price. I have my own room, safe parking for ten bucks not to bad for this place, it should be a 20 dollar room and parking.  I grabbed some pizza and water I am very dehydrated. I will head out tomorrow morning trying to get the best of the last 20hrs of dirt tomorrow to Cuzco.

DAY-176

12/26/2012

        Started off this day around 8am on a beat up 4x4 road, I was hoping to make it to Abancay a supposedly 16hr bus ride. For the first two hours of riding I was alone except for the occasional truck. I bounced my way up toward a ridge up and over. The road was rad just winding through the country side farm after farm, I wasn’t sure I was on the right road but felt I was going in the right direction. The 4x4 dumped me onto another road, a smoother well used dirt road. I stopped and saw two vans headed my way; I waved down the second van and asked which way toward Abancay, they pointed me in the right direction then asked if they could take a picture of me.

        I made my way down until I hit construction; we waited in line for about 10 minutes and then were told to go. Although half way through they stopped us again a truck was getting loaded with dirt, he kept waving me over then forward and then over and so on. Finally I saw an opening with the truck and blasted past the stop sign guy and made my exit. This new road I was on was nicely maintained and not bumpy but still dirt. There was at least 100 switch backs down to the river and crossed over to a town where I had lunch (two packs of cookies and a bottle of water). My map showed all dirt until Abancay, although after another hour of dirt the road went to brand new asphalt. I raged this through the mountains; the road constantly would climb up over mountains freezing cold and raining sleeting, and then switch back down to the floor of the desert so hot stripping off my layers. I made it to Andahuaylas which was supposed to be a good place to sleep, I asked how long till Abanacay as I got gas, I was told by Moto rapido it would take 3hrs, and it was 3pm. Not going to lie that last three hours was gnarly I was getting exhausted. At this point I had ridden close to 40hrs of 3/4 dirt in the past 4 days. I climbed two more passes and a few long straight away hugging to a side of a mountain. I topped out on the last pass and could see the city of Abancay, It was way down in the valley at least another hour. I raced down the dirt switch backs well over a hundred of them, finally dumping out at the river then had to ride down the river away from town for about 5km cross the bridge and start to climb back up toward the city via asphalt. Man to be honest I have not been this tired or beat up from riding thus far on this trip, four long hard days of riding and I am only 3-4hrs away from Cuzco. I found a cheap place to sleep after bargaining. I grabbed some food but because I was stupid and hadn’t eaten anything real all day or drank enough water I felt sick after eating and ran for the toilet. I went to bed by 8pm, dead to the world.

DAY OF PAVEMENT

STORMS A COMING

EVERY TURN THE VIEWS JUST GET BETTER AND BETTER

GOGGLE VIEWS

BEAUTIFUL DAY OF RIDING

SWITCH BACKS DROPPING ME BACK INTO A VALLEY

IF YOU WERE MY GOGGLES

ALL TO MYSELF

SO SO SO MUCH FUN

NEW TURN NEW ADVENTURE

IF U WERE MY GOGGLES

AWESOME!!!!

THUMBS UP FOR LIVING

RADTASTIC!!!!

MY FAVORITE SHOT THUS FAR

THROUGH THE ANDES I GO

DAY-172

4/22/2012

I woke up around 6am due to a bunkmate leaving for a trek at 5am. I walked to a famous café place, where they had awesome maps of the park and the Andes. I hung out checking out the maps, drinking coffee, and eating a breakfast burrito. I walked around for awhile until I headed back to the hostel to work on my RR and Blog. I met a nice guy from Santa Cruz; Jay, who had been in Ecuador for the past 4 months working for a nonprofit. He is an organic farmer from California. I worked on my bike went over it checking for anything loose as well as check my air filter and got my back up ready to go. We went out with a dad Neil from Bellingham, WA, he was a teacher and they had been living down here for the past 4 months. He took us to a local brewery that was started and ran by a guy from Steamboat, CO. It was defiantly the best beer I have had since leaving Colorado, nice to drink a beer with flavor. We then split up, Jay and I headed for some dinner, we found a little pizza place. While we were eating a young couple sat down and we started talking with them. They were Crested Butte’s enemies, ASPENITES!! No no they were very very nice and we talked for awhile they were here to climb but all of their gear and luggage was lost on the way down, so they were waiting.

DAY-173

4/23/2012

        I quickly packed up my gear and then walked down the street for some coffee and breakfast. I headed out of town with a quick gas up and was making great time; I missed my turn but flipped a Uie and headed right back. I headed down a dirt road headed for the park; I arrived and paid my 5 Sol entrance fee. I was sitting at the edge of the park peering into the Cordilleras Blanca Mountain range which is the second largest highest mountains range in the world behind the Himalayas. There are 22 summits over 6,000 meters, and I was about to cross right through them. I headed into the park; I was having a blast ripping through the park. I stopped took a picture and the bike was looking good, I was about 20km from the park entrance when I glanced down and my speedometer was not working. Crap, I stopped at the top of a set of switchbacks and my speedometer cable had come loose and the inner cable fell out somewhere. Crap Crap Crap, I headed back slowly looking along the way no luck there and back. Oh well I can deal without knowing how fast I am going but not knowing mileage is going to be tricky not to run out of gas. So I will try and find one in the next town or at least will have some luck in Cuzco, still if I am having no luck I will get Mikey to bring it to Bolivia.

        Well after knowing that it was gone it was time to rip rip rip up the Andes. I headed up into the Andes rising in altitude quickly; ripping passed the huge Andes towering over the road. The road just kept going up, I defiantly felt it strongly. I was around 16,000ft at one time, it was amazing to be that surround by massive mountains, defiantly reminded me of the Himalayas in Nepal. There were lakes everywhere, the views were incredible. I came upon a huge glacier just sitting over the road just waiting to avalanche on my head. I never saw another vehicle once I got past the hiking area. I spent 2 hours just throwing around the heavy animal through the Andes. The road itself was very bumpy, washed out at spots, rivers, mud, and whole lot of fun! It just kept going up, it would dip down for a second let me catch my breath and then back up again I went. Massive drop offs while hugging massive mountains, the feeling of riding through there are indescribable something you just have to experience.

 I dumped out onto a paved road, and couldn’t figure out which way to go so I guessed (and was wrong woops). Quick 10 minute detour and I was back on track. I stopped at the top of this pass and it was an awesome picture of the twistiest road with switch backs after switch backs. I was stoked I started heading down and about 3 hours later I was still doing gnarly switch backs well over 300 switch backs from 4,000 meter down finally to like 2,000 meters. The road got super narrow, when I say narrow I mean it fits one bike and a car, one car, one truck, one bus, add a bike with the truck or bus and you got a tight squeeze. I had a couple of very close calls; the turns were so dangerous at times. You had a huge drop off on one side and cars trying to kill you from the other. The blind turns everyone gives a honk to give a heads up to oncoming traffic. I finally made it down and headed for Huánuco. All day I was getting chased and attack attempts by dogs, I was swerving donkeys, bulls, cows, chickens, pigs, goats, sheep, and so on. I was heading through a town when a goat jumped from the pack and I just missed him, I somehow missed the head of a bull by hairs, a huge chicken was crossing the road I went left and all of a sudden I was dealing with a dog chasing me when the chicken flipped a Uie and I hit him…. Lots of squawking.

        I passed a police check point, no other cars pulled over, two cops in the back seat one standing watching me, and one more standing in front of his car back to me. Right as I passed he turned around and blew his whistle for me to stop, sorry to late already passed you and I kept on moving. I watched them in the mirror nothing, they just stood there watching me leave.

 I was a little lost but figured it out and found the place I was looking for. They moved some furniture and I pulled the bike in, but they wanted me to take the Panniers off to get it further into the hostel. It’s a pain for me to do so, so I said no. There was a guy with tons of jokes that was driving me crazy asking tons of questions, usually not a big deal but I was exhausted and starving. They sent me down a few doors to a family where they let me park it inside their house next to their 125cc bike.

        I found a slamming local spot for a great dinner of rice, grilled chicken, and veggies for 5 sols, so awesome. I am now going to go to bed and go again tomorrow.. Cuzco here I come, get to see Wyley a friend from way back and he is also bringing me my new Canon S100, a lot better quality pics to come.

Quick story that I forgot some reason I didn’t write about a few days ago. I was riding up to a small town and I could see people running frantically and jumping up on top of a truck  and just trying to get out of the way. I slowed down as I got close to the action and then I realized they were all trying to get away from a pissed off bull. The bull was running around chasing people while they were helplessly trying to catch it. He was on the far left side of the road so I made a decision and pinned it as I did he came running across the road at me and a group of people standing on the far right of the road. I twisted the throttle and swerved right toward the group of people and around the Bull with a holler I was out and safe.

HERE WE GO!!!!

PARK ENTRANCE

PLATE SNAPPED ON ONE SIDE

SO AMAZING TO BE RIDING THROUGH THE ANDES!!

PICTURE SAYS IT ALL

SO RAD

BREATH TAKING, NO SERIOUSLY I CANNOT BREATH UP HERE HAHA

OUT OF THE PARK

WATERFALLS EVERYWHERE

WISHING I HAD MY CBR RIGHT ABOUT NOW

NOW DROPPING IN ELEVATION

IF U WERE MY GOGGLES

ALL THE SAME LONG ROAD!!!

WHAT A RAD DAY

DAY-171

4/21/2012

        I got up early packed up the bike and was ready to rip, checked out, stopped to get cash pushed the wrong button and got US $, crap. Found a place with crappy exchange rate but only place open at 7:30am. I headed south, making good time on the PA asphalt toward Santa. I stopped for gas and food. Got directions after asking 5 people and headed for the Andes. I road this nice small asphalt road toward the Andes the scenery started to change slowly. Clay had given me a heads up where to get off the asphalt and link up with a small dirt road that links a few villages together. I came up on a road block/ Check point and headed through. Came to the turn where the asphalt goes over a bridge and heads into the mountain or a dirt road that runs along the river. I headed back to the check point double checked that the road would dump out near Caraz and then took it. Right away I knew it was right, very rocky and bumpy vibrating me to hell, I was just laughing as I road next to huge walls and a nice drop off into the river right next to me. I came upon my first dug out tunnel and was in awe, stopped and had to take a picture of the bike next to it. I headed through not gaining a lot of altitude, just headed down a bumpy road with dug out tunnels, sketchy falling apart bridges, small mining towns, and a nice river running at me. I rode for about 2+ hrs when I saw a few people outside their tienda where there was a fork in the road; I stopped to make sure I was headed in the right direction. I was but they made it sound like I had 5 more hrs of this road until I make it to Caraz. I decided to push through and see where it takes me worse case I have to camp into a rad area.

        I kept heading the same way, the road started to gain altitude. More and more tunnels, just jumping back and forth over the river. I was just laughing and bounding down the road, which was starting to smooth out more and more from the mining trucks. I started to pass through larger villages and was feeling like I was defiantly getting closer I could start to get glimpses of huge Andes Mountains in the distance. I was thinking too much and not just enjoying the ride, I need to work on taking everything in more and letting all the crap in the brain go. It has been interesting all the thoughts and conversations you end up having while riding for great distances at a time... haha I have to tell myself to shut up and laugh. I am getting a lot better at stopping more and taking tons of photos as I ride, instead of just pounding through the ride. It is crazy how much you lean and realize about yourself when it is just you around. I have defiantly notice a crazy calming feeling taking over the past weeks. I cannot describe it something you have to experience for yourself.

        I came into another miner village with colorful concrete houses and tons of mines everywhere. I saw a sign all of a sudden for Caraz only 50km away. The road got very smooth still dirt but fast. I hit another town where the road just dumped out onto an asphalt road right before I ended up in Caraz, was sure it was it a lot smaller than I thought and lots of clouds so I could see the huge Andes towering over the town. I sat in town talking to a crazy bum reading up on the area, I decided to keep heading south. I rode a main road 70km to Hurraz, where I rode around looking for a hostel I had read about. I finally found the hostel and was hoping to camp but they had stopped allowing camping and they had very cheap rooms so I took one with safe parking. I got into my room for 15 Sol (6 bucks); I met a nice guy from the UK and decided to go out for good food. I have been living and eating very cheaply keeping well under budget so I decided to splurge for a good meal and beer. We met up around 8pm at an English curry restaurant where I had delicious Chicken Curry and local breweries brew. Spent about 18bucks on a really good dinner and two awesome beer (best beer since leaving home) so much flavor. I was exhausted after a day of throwing around my big bike, all day it was hot until I made it here where it is a little over 3000 meters and nice and cool. Tomorrow I will take it easy mapping out my route for the next 5 days of riding until I get to Cuzco, and also hike around a little bit taking it all in. Leaving I know I will get to ride through the park hitting elevations of 4000+ meters.

START OF THE EPIC ROAD!!! FIRST OF MANY TUNNELS

FROM MY EYES, LITTLE MINING VILLAGES EVEWRYWEHRE

I COULD NTO STOP, STOPPING AND TAKES PICS ALL DAY

JUST RODE AND LAUGHED ALL DAY!!!

I HAD TO DEAL WITH THESE AWEFUL VIEWS ALL DAY!!!

JUST SMILING AND RIDING

SHOTS OF BEHIND ME

WATERFALLS POPPING OUT OF EVERYWHERE

TWENTY PLUS TUNNELS I GOT TO RIDE THROUGH!!!

HONK BEFORE YOU GO!!!

SHOT FROM THE ROAD, THE ANDES ARE STARTING TO POP UP

HURRAZ CENTER SQUARE

GOODNIGHT FROM HURRAZ!!!

DAY 166-170

4/16-20/2012
        Woke up and was feeling a little under the weather, stomach was bugging me so I took it easy for the day walking around the city. Took a bunch of naps and got fluids into me and a little food, although hard to find food that’s not fried, pizza, or rice/chicken combos. I crashed out early and planned on getting up early and head south. I got up and was on the road, riding the good ol PA. I got to Trujillo and new of a town Huachuca which is a little surf town. I headed down the road stopped and headed down a quick dirt road right up to the beach took a few pictures and headed back to Huachuca. I found a cheap hostel about 6 bucks a night with a nice cushy garage for my bike. I walked around town looking for Cerviche which I found and was extremely disappointed. Met a nice guy from San Diego and a guy from Austria.
        I sat at the hostel catching up on a month worth of writing and pics. I uploaded all my work to my Blog and ADVRIDER, due to the fast internet it took hours of sorting and uploading. I went out to dinner with my new friends to an awesome restaurant soup, huge entrees, and juice for 5 Sol ($2). We hung out for the evening talking about our trips, Kevin from San Diego had just spent over 4 months deep in the Amazon he had some pretty wicked stories.
        I was thinking of heading out the next day but still my stomach was still not right. I hung out went to the beach for a quick swim which was entertaining. The waves were intense breaking on shore with rocks smashing into you; I got pumbled a little but still had a nice swim. Had a few good meals all for 5 sol’s apiece. Met a bunch of nice people from all over, ranging from travelers who are just here for a few weeks to people who have been going for over 1 ½ years.
        I woke up and started to pack although my clock was off so I over slept by over an hour and still not feeling awesome. I decided to lay low met a lot more people and had some great conversation and just took in how awesome this small town on the coast was. Also it will be my last coastal town for awhile. I ran into a few friends from Ecuador and that was nice to see where they had been and what they had been up to. I packed my bags and was set no questions asked I was getting out of here tomorrow!! I went over my map and suggestions from Joel and Clay other riders who are ahead of me or already made it to TDF and are headed home.

SHOT FROM MY SIX DOLLAR ROOM

SETTING QUICKLY

LUCKY SHOT, SUCH A COOL WAY TO END A NICE DAY!!